Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Another Kind of Massage

i decided it was a good time and place to experience my first massage. i was on a beautiful beach, massages offered all around, and kerala is infamous for ayurveda. so i found a reputable place, and returned 1 1/2 hours later as scheduled, anxiously awaiting the medicinal oils. i had heard accounts of them and was mentally prepared, but that turned out to be a false confidence.

"take off clothes," requested the petite indian ayurvedic doctor preparing to massage me. she spoke enough english to communicate instructions.
"all of them?" i modestly asked. she nodded. i waited a moment for her to leave the premise or hide behind a curtain, or somehow dim the natural light shining through the windows for privacy. i realized she that was not in the plan. there i awkwardly stood, my nakedness unapologetically revealing itself awaiting further instruction.

"sit here." she motioned to the wooden bed. i sat suddenly aware of every imperfection on my body, but the masseuse professionally ignored my thoughts.
as she dumped the herbal oil concoction on the crown of my head, i could feel it trickle down my neck and the earthy, musty scent filled my nostrils. a hand motioned for me to lie back onto the table. i automatically crossed my arms over my body to try to dress it as best as i could, but the shield did not last long. my arms were removed from their intentional strategic placements, slathered with oil and massaged in a precise brisk pattern 1 by 1, moving to each section of the body, leaving little untouched. i closed my eyes to allow myself to relax. i had already committed. my only choice was to surrender my pride and modesty. it was silly to hold onto it.

before i knew it, the hour was up, and i was nearly asleep. i was relaxed. it was all good.

The Mirrored Salwar




after our time in the ashram, we headed to the closest beach, varkala. it is a small but beautiful beach with clifftop views, restaurants and guesthouses. there were many tourists, sure, but it was a nice contrast and a pleasant place to ease our way back into the world.

on the path to my hotel, i passed 5 basically identical stalls of sarongs, scarves, clothes and ankle bracelets. and they were mainly run by interns. at 6-7 years of age, these interns were programmed well. not a time went by that i could quietly walk past w/o requesting me to "take a look, madam". politely refusing their usual tactics each time not wanting to give them false hope in my cheapness, i eventually caved. i went to take a look. and i did find a scarf i was truly interested in, so i bargained per protocol. not wanting to sell it at my offering price, i began to walk away. so they began bargaining with themselves until they came to my offering price.

but before making the final sale, i requested a mirror to try it on. before the young intern could retrieve one, his grandmother lends her left arm my direction where i noticed my reflection (with scarf) was a mosaic on her sleeve. with a genuine laugh shared by all 3 of us, and the rest of the family in the audience hoping for a sale, how could i refuse? THAT was a sales tactic i had not seen before!

Monday, January 19, 2009

Life in the Ashram

Om namo narayanaya...these sanskrit words (a chant for world peace) along with "jaya ganesha", "om namo sivaya" cannot seem to leave my head. chanting them daily morning and evening left them occupying my thoughts. at first they were a bit irritating, but these singing chants grew on me...the whole group singing together, drumming away, jingling the tamberines, good voices, bad ones, good rhythm, bad rhythm. i could not understand the meaning of the sanskrit, but the intention behind it all was a bit intoxicating.

but after nearly 2 weeks in Sivananda ashram in the sw kerala, we were excited to hand in our official exit passes and be on our merry way, back into the temptations and pleasures of the outside world. it was a nice change of pace being in the ashram however. basically all decisions were made for us via the daily schedule. there was no deciding "where do we go next?", "how long should we stay?", "where should we stay?", "how do we get there?", "what should we eat?" each day was similar: early morning rise and shine, satsung (meditating and singing chants), yoga, brunch, karma yoga (chores), lecture and free time, yoga, dinner, and satsung.
it felt great to slow down and recenter, taking time to process the people, places, faces, sights, and sounds over the past few months, and discussing anything and everything as the mood struck with fellow travelers. doing more yoga in 2 weeks than i have ever done, my body felt great...longer, taller, and happier.