PHOTOS (from Karnataka and Kerala)

okay, sorry it has been awhile. you can check this website for updated photos (i apologize, the last website i left would not get you very far, but try these):

http://picasaweb.google.co.in/coffeewithkatie/IndiaMysore#
http://picasaweb.google.co.in/coffeewithkatie/IndiaCoorgRegionMadikeri#
http://picasaweb.google.co.in/coffeewithkatie/IndiaKerala#

i hope you all are great! thanks again for reading and browsing!

Farming Mishap and Happy Little Trees

we were excited to reach our first wwoof farm. the description sounded lovely and simple enough at paradisa resort. resort? hmm, not exactly what we had in mind, but optimistic, we carried on. organic spice and coffee plantation adjacent to the tiger reserve. housing in dorms and tents. the prospect of it was all very romantic. and it WAS very beautiful, relaxing setting and location. then we met the owner. i, being the single female, was housed in a high-end room next to the owner who knocked on my door multiple times a day/eve and invited me over for cocktails. clue #1. straight, simple answers were difficult to come by. what time do we meet in the morning? where do you sell the coffee we are picking? why are we tossing organic coffee into paint and motor oil cans that you can still smell the chemicals radiating from? we awkwardly showed up at hours we thought might be reasonable to eat gourmet food in a corner of the kitchen where we were served by staff. receiving special treatment felt uncomfortable. the fellow harvesters were kind, friendly and hard workers, however, i got the impression they had no idea who we were or why we were there. unsure of the entire operation and unconvinced we were exchanging valuable help or information, we left after 3 days.

in need of renewing positive energy, we will be heading into the hills to holistically rejuvenate our beings at an ashram, working on a different kind of (yoga) tree. tomorrow will begin a new year in positions my body may or may not like. perhaps i will comfortably be able to touch my toes in a couple of weeks!

a very hap hap happy new year to you all and a free mind, body, and soul!

Happy Holidays!!

We arrived in Cochin (the main city in the sw state of kerala). we spent a majority of the time catching up on things we had been needing to do, and taking in the more european/christian-influenced state. and because of this influence along with being coastal, the cuisine is slightly different and delicious, incorporating meat and fish. so we thought it would be fun to take a cooking class here. it turned out to be more of a demonstration, but still was fun to see an experienced cook prepare local fish curry and veggie dishes with coconut, and chapati (flat-bread), and to take home some ideas. the best part was indulging at the end. we headed a bit south for the holidays.

i guess i should be getting used to creating new holiday traditions in the nontraditional sense as i am not often home for the holidays working as a nurse. but that does not mean i do not miss them. a good chunk of our celebration was spent discussing how we would be celebrating the holidays at home. "okay, so what would you be doing right now?" is a question that has come up quite frequently the past few days. and while christmas has lost its religious value for me and gift giving has vastly downsized, the spirit of being surrounded by family and friends, kicking back watching christmas vacation and the christmas story, listening to cheesy christmas music, taking on my dad in our biannual ping pong match (and often losing), listening to the off-key "i said the donkey" at midnight mass on christmas eve trying to hold in my laughter so that i do not draw too much attention to the scent of alcohol on my breath, and eating until i cannot eat anymore makes me a bit homesick.

but the holidays have treated us quite well. with the christian influence here in kerala, christmas is present more than most areas of india. we "splurged" and stayed at a guesthouse ($10/night) along the backwaters adn spent christmas eve and christmas in the sunny, humid heat to spend two lazy days lounging, reading, strolling, canoing, and feasting on traditional indian fare in a small village. the family is fantastic, and so were the other travelers. we got a big kick out of the fireworks the family set off and evern moreso, the christmas carolers complete with drums, trumpets, and a wildly dancing santa with a red-face/white beard mask. it's a hoot!

the backwaters is a beautiful place, but environmentally speaking is a bit sad to experience. it is easy to imagine serene waters in the not-so-distant past with sporatic hand-made wooden canoes powered by good old fashioned manual paddles transporting locals from place to place, and healthy birds feeding on healthy fish, and the waters providing a source for food, bathing, laundering, and perhaps even drinking. while most of these traditions and aspects are still fulfilled, the "health aspect" has been corrupted by increasingly polluted waters encouraged by travelers like us who increase the demand for large houseboats, thus filling the waters with the sounds and waste of motors. and despite the pollution, the waters are still used for such practical purposes of food, bathing and rice paddy farms. our host family, for instance, informed us that they farm "organically", the way their ancestors did without chemicals. but the pollution in the waters that they flood their paddys with counteracts their efforts.

in any case, the backwaters remains a beautiful and mostly tranquil space with a tight and open community of villagers who have remained for generations. i also found it interesting that this remote area, being quite well-educated and using traditional techniques, is self-sustaining, growing its own food, fishing, and exporting rice, (and now tourism) as its main source of income. they are quite aware of the increasing pollution of the houseboats, and are able to flush the backwaters with sea water periodically, but it still cannot keep up with the quantities infusing into it daily. and that which is flushed out goes somewhere, and that somewhere is the ocean. they are doing their best, and the tourism supports their income. so what is the answer? who knows? tangeant done.

and so today we are heading to our first farm a bit inland near a tiger reserve. it is on a coffee and spice plantation. easing our way into the farming scene, we will probably be harvesting coffee. it will be a nice change of pace to be in one place for a couple of weeks...working on an organic farm.

I Hear That Train A Comin', Comin' Round The Bend...

i generally enjoy traveling by train. the gentle rock of the train and the rhythm of the chug chug chug soothes me to sleep. trains can be the most comfortable way to travel in india...or perhaps the least. we hopped a train to Cochin (the largest city in the southwestern-most state of kerala). what a trip! it is cheap, sure! i did not sleep a wink over the course of the 9 hour night train ride. we rode second class unreserved b/c that was the only available. it cannot possibly be that bad, right? hmmm, i think i might have to argue that one, although i am glad on some level that we experienced it...once. i have gained a whole new level of respect for those who travel this way more than once. they are way more self-disciplined than me.

when the train arrived, we forced our way onto the crowded car, and luckily found an empty bench on the top/second tier. meant for 3 people, meg, tim, and i fit perfectly. but it does not work that way. each 3 person bench squeezed 4-5 people on, and each stop brought more passengers, piling on the seats, and spilling into the aisles. people were sitting on the ground, standing, and intertwined on the seats trying to find a position comfortable enough to settle into. my body was not quite able to find that position, however. maybe i can dangle my legs (but then they are hanging in people's faces). okay, i will sit cross-legged (but there isn't enough space). i will try hugging my knees (but the bar my feet rest on is digging into my heels and the bar between my buttocks isn't super cozy). i got it. i will sit on my shoes and rest my feet on the bench across from us. damn, i can only reach with my toes. i hope that roach does not scurry over this way. and that was the extent of the night, repeating itself in a predictable cadence. once we arrived in Cochin, we found a clean guesthouse, and the best night's sleep i have had in weeks!

The Universal Language

After a not so pleasant experience in mysore (see bed bugs), we headed to the southern part of the state of Karnataka to the western ghats, a small mountain range. craving some respite from cities, we were in search of a little peace and quiet, ideally in the form of trekking. and we found just that. this was one of my favorite experiences in india. so far, my richest experiences have been spending time with local people. it is easy enough to travel around india as a tourist, but it feels more rewarding to have the chance to spend time and speak with the people who live here.

we set off from Madikeri and for 3 days we trekked the hills. it felt wonderful to breath the fresh air, strap on a pack, and hike. the scenery was beautiful and varied through coffee plantations, rice patties, pepper and cardamom plants, over ridgelines, and past waterfalls. but it would not have been the same without our enthusiastic guide, Vijakimar. He has been leading treks for 20 years, and more recently with tourists as the demand has increased. as we strolled up with our fancy packs and shoes and quick-drying clothing, Vijak wore a cotton polo, double knit bell-bottoms, and converse chuck taylor style shoes. a simple man with curious intellect full of trivia and facts and a lover of nature, history, culture, science and philosophy, conversation with Vijak was never dull. by the end, it felt like we were old pals.

each of the 2 nights was a homestay in two quite different homes that provided traditional breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. the first night, we stayed with a husband and wife on their coffee plantation. apparently doing pretty well, their house was large and well-maintained, and we stayed in the extra guesthouse behind the main house. electricity was provided and hot water was available, heated by a stove, and we each had individual beds. the two were quite friendly and welcoming and spoke enough english to get by.

the second night, we stayed in a hut. the accommodation was quite basic using a kerosene lamp to light the space and provided an outdoor cold shower (which was fantastic by the way). the woman who provided our meals and maintained the huts lived with her mother in a simple 2 room home with a thatched roof. 1 room was the kitchen and the other served as the bedroom/dining room. speaking little english, we thought it might be difficult to communicate and perhaps a bit awkward. however, after working a full day in a rice patty, in her slightly tattered and well-worked sari she wore earlier in the day, she cooked a delicious meal for us and presented it with the warmest most genuine smile. her body language said it all. without speaking a single word we could understand, we were at ease. the cultural gap was barried in her natural demeaner. we ate contently in comfortable silence that evening in the glow of the candle. and we responded with smiles of sincere gratitude. perhaps a smile is the universal language. a humbling experience to say the least, the expression that filled this woman's being was inspiring. she may not own many things, but she possesses the most valuable of all (to be cliche)...happiness!

Good Night, Sleep Tight...

it was bound to happen. it was the hotel in mysore that was the lucky winner. after a series of low-cost, budget, basic if dodgy hotels, pests were sure to take their toll. i never understood the rest of this saying to its full potential until now. DON'T LET THE BED BUGS BITE! unfortunately, i did. i naively convinced myself it was just an abnormal number of mosquito bites (i lost track at 80) covering my arms, hands, feet, neck and face. my second night in the same room, i knew better.

unable to sleep well with visions of tiny insects feasting on me, i rushed to the internet to research "bed bugs" the following morning. sure enough, wikipedia told me what i did not want to hear. the description was perfect. it was bed bugs i had spotted the previous night but denied the reality. it was they who bite and bite and bite a series of bites one next to the other, they that cause itching that makes you want to peel your skin off, they who cause anxiety and insomnia. aaargh!

faced with the reality, meg and i dissected my bag, and i thoroughly washed everything. fortunately the hotel we are currently in has hot water to kill the little bastards. my hotel standards have now slightly increased, and so have my investigative skills when seeking a place to sleep the night away.

then i have to put it in perspective. while i am searching for a little relief from this brief discomfort i am having, it is minimal when people around me are sleeping on the filthy sidewalk, searching for food and survival.

More PHOTOS

alright, so here is the full album from hampi:

http://picasaweb.google.co.in/coffeewithkatie/IndiaHampiPart1 and
http://picasaweb.google.co.in/coffeewithkatie/IndiaHampiPart2

and just a few from bangalore. the markets were so colorful and beautiful here. and people were so excited to have their picture taken. and the fragrance of the flowers was so refreshing. it was truly a highlight for me to experience the bustling and crowded space and observe the culture of the people who work and shop there. i certainly cannot capture it with my words or photos, but i gave it a go anyway. here is the link:

http://picasaweb.google.com/coffeewithkatie/IndiaBangalore02?authkey=h8mCrQ6LYFM#

3-2-1 Blast Off!

from hampi, we took an overnight train to bangalore. unfortunately i spotted a roach (that ended up crawling to my 2nd tear bed), and i had a difficult time sleeping. but at least the mosquitoes were not covering me. at goan corner in hampi, my mosquito net had holes all over it, thus making it quite ineffective. for this mosquito-attracting girl, that can be disastrous.

in any case, the train is 100 times nicer than the buses that create involuntary head-banging to the beat of the rattling windows. we rolled into bangalore in the wee hours of the morning and did our usual exploring by foot. bangalore is more modern than other cities we have been to in india with well-known hospitals, shopping malls, but mostly is known as (and its modern feel is probably a result of) the technology/IT mecca of india and maybe even asia. so to see a little for ourselves, we checked out the technological and industrial museum where i learned about motors and carborators. and to stick with the theme, that night we had a kingfisher beer at a bar called NASA, an '80s space theme bar that feels like you are walking into a spaceship and about to blast-off. it was quite surreal, and the urge to do the robot nearly took over. the best part is that the bars close around 12am, but many of the internet joints are open 24 hours.

day 2 was a highlight. in the morning we strolled into the lalbagh botanical gardens, then found an amazing restaurant for lunch called Mavalli Tiffin House, and apparently a famous institution. there are 2 rooms filled with tables and chairs, and they fill them in shifts so that everyone is served a set meal at once. there were multiple courses with curries, salads, raita (yogurt salad), chapati (flat bread), rice, and on and on. it was the food that just kept giving and some of the best i have had in india. perhaps the whole ambiance contributed. and to finish, pan was given to freshen the mouth. pan can either be betel nut that is similar to chew in the states, but this paan was a typical and more artistic form of some sort of edible leaf with anise, lime and various other herbs. delicious!

in the evening, we met up with friends of friends (and now our friends), VJ and Ragu and their little one, Harsheetha. they are living in bangalore, and graciously showed us around the city, sharing some of their recommended spots and places off of the beaten tourist track. it was refreshing to experience the city from a local's perspective. we kicked it off at an extensive bakery with tempting sweets (and were introduced to a healthy variety of them), and were shown some of the highlights of the city including elaborate Hindu temples with informative explanations and some of the IT campuses. VJ and Ragu patiently answered our stream of questions regarding indian culture, Hinduism, and infrastructure, and filled in some of the blanks that we have previously tried to fill with speculation. the hosts with the mosts, we visited over more delicious food and drink at one of the nicest restaurants we have eaten in. they truly made our experience in bangalore a wonderful and memorable one and hope that we can some day return the favor.

Is Humpy the same place as Hampi?

this was our concern when we bought our bus tickets, considering the possibility that we actually bought our tickets for a similar (but different) location. apparently it goes by both names, and i believe hampi and humpy have made my favorite places list. meg, tim, and i spent a week there, but i could have easily spent much more time. and many people do spend weeks to months there. it is difficult to fully capture its charm but it certainly involves the sense of community between both the locals and visitors. at sunny guesthouse, the place we initially crashed, was extremely friendly. by the first evening, we knew the names of the staff and they knew ours.

their kindness made it difficult to move on, but i was itching to check out the rocks. besides the vast ruins that are clustered in the main bazaar area and the temples taht pepper the surrounding areas, it is very well-known among the climbing community for its boulders. while i am certainly no pro, i was anxious to see what the talk was all about. so i headed to goan corner, a further removed guesthouse of huts and good food surrounded by rice fields and coconut trees and close to banana fields and the hot spots for bouldering. it is sort of the "camp 4" of hampi. charmilla, the owner, is a very savy, strong, confident woman with a great sense of humor, a good business sense. she makes the place what it is and draws in groups of climbers and other visitors who seem to grow roots there. this is where i met nick, a seasoned climber and outdoor educator from england, who introduced me to many others in the area. nick served as a great motivator and guide especially to us novices.

groups met every morning at 6:30 and every evening at 4p to avoid the heat of mid-day. this also meant catching some incredible sunrises and sunsets. and the middle of the day was filled with lazily reading in a hammock, strolling, visiting with other travellers or whatever. it felt fantastic to be out working the muscles i haven't used in several months. the first morning, meg and i went out on the rocks with nick. after a couple of hours, nick randomly asked if we had brought any money and if we wanted to buy a cake. it seemed an odd question considering our surroundings and the time of day. but just then, the "cake man" appeared around the corner of the rock we were working on and presented delicious cake options. his wife bakes them every morning and he walks miles each day delivering them to a welcoming audience. they have creatively found their niche in the climbers. we ate our banana chocolate cake with smiles on our faces. after a couple of days, my muscles and a beat-up hand ended that venture for a bit. but man, i think i fell in love with hampi! hahaha! and after a week, the group decision was to head back into india as hampi is a world of its own.

Between a Rock...

from the beaches of goa, we caught an eventful overnight bus to hampi. apparently in need of sleep, i had little problem curling into the shape of my seat and falling fast asleep. i awoke to a nearly empty bus to find that we happened upon a head-on collision b/w another tour bus and a goods carrier (dump truck). i felt guilty that i had slept through the first hour after stopping - assisting injured passengers, first aid. not that i could have been much help, but i guiltily felt some sense of responsibility.

anyway, the driver of the tour bus remained trapped by the crushed front end. with no cell reception, traffic not moving and in the middle of nowhere, the passersby were forced to take matters into their own hands. they tied a rope to the crushed metal at the front of the bus and a truck and after a couple of attempts succussfully freed the driver. so with no resources available (ambulance, emt's, police jaws of life, etc) at this location in the middle of the night, the man was carried to our bus to be taken to the nearest hospital (2.5 hrs away). 5 hrs after crushing his leg and merely 400mg ibuprofen later (he wanted no more), the man reached the modest hospital for professional care. thankfully, no one was critically injured. i sort of made an excuse to peek inside of the 5 room hospital (including icu) and was oh so thankful for the systems we have in place. i have been known to criticize our healthcare system, but i was immediately humbled...for our facilities, level of care, and availability. ours are not flawless, but our tax dollars do more than a decent job providing such necessary services.

and we made it to hampi (sort of middle south in the state of karnataka). our first day was slow after a long night, and our second day stifled by illness. but the past 2 days have treated us quite well. it is an incredible place of vast boulder fields larger than i have ever seen, and many of which are perched atop another mysteriously defying gravity. interspersed throughout these massive boulders are many many hindu temples and ruins dating back to the 1500s. and beyond that are banana fields, rice patties and small villages. the sunsets and sunrises (we did actually get up early enough to catch one) are out of this world. it is a beautiful landscape and is keeping us here longer than anywhere else we have been thus far.

the monkeys are showing themselves a bit more, and the mosquitoes are horrendous but the friendly locals and the views trump it all...and it is exceptionally cheap!

On the scene - PHOTOS from beyond

okay, so it has been a challenge to download photos (and quite time consuming to post on the blog), but i have finally gotten some downloaded. now that your eyes are red, sore, and unable to focus from all of the words on the page, below are some links to photos from Maharashtra (Mumbai and Mahabalashwar) and Goa (Punjim and Arombol). now you can put some visuals to all of that writing.

http://picasaweb.google.com/katiedonze/IndiaMumbai#
http://picasaweb.google.com/katiedonze/IndiaGoa#

Animals of Arambol

expectations on a beach might generally include human footprints, people lounging, playing frisbee, beach volleyball, probably some seabird footprints, and perhaps some dogs frollicking around. all of these are pretty much fulfilled, but there are also hoofprints and cow dung...and herds of cattle with gnarly horns curving around their heads, nonchalauntly walking or lying beachside...and packs of dogs biting their skin catching some cool air in the shade of a shored boat.

there are some pretty fantastic restaurants too, offering a variety of food with equally great ambiance. the fresh fruit and their juices are out of this world...and there is good coffee to be found here (which unfortunately reintroduces and feeds my addiction that i just recovered from 2 days of caffeine withdrawal headaches from. but it is worth it for now. i guess i will have to rid myself of dependencies another time.) anyway, (back on course), our favorite restaurant here is called double dutch, so we continue to return. the beggars just do not give in though (the cats that is). they watch you, sit in the extra chair at the table and meow. or they treat the sandy ground beneath as a giant litter box and proceed to do their business beneath the chairs...and even theirs is not solid! hahaha

nonetheless, all of these 4-legged beasts are friendly.

and the 6+ legged and winged, i am not quite sure what it is but man, they are eating me alive!

life is good here and laid-back. it moves at a nice, slow pace. we have started to recognize some of the fellow travelers and locals, and they recognize us. but now the time has come for us to move on. we leave unbronzed...as pale as we came, but we are eastbound on an overnight bus the extensive ruins in the ghost-town of hampi (aka "humpy").

The Arambol Experience

i met meg and tim several hours after they arrived. in panjim (the previous town we set out from) i had removed money. taking my time to replace my card and receipt in their proper places, the atm machine sucked the cash back in. thus, i waited around until the bank opened and they audited the machine to retrieve my money. lesson learned. then, i took the local buses about 40 miles west to arombol. i have never seen a bus so crowded in my life. just when it did not seem like 1 more person could cram in, 15 more piled on. 2 1/2 hours later we arrived, i bathing in my pool of sweat. from the bus stop, i began walking toward the beach at our alotted meeting place, pack on my back. motorcycles and scooter far outnumber those of us on foot. when presented with the opportunity to take a load off, i caught the remainder of the walk on the back of a scooter of another visitor. (it was only about 1/2 mile, but it was still worth it).

we have been staying a quaint little basic hotel for $10 a night between the 3 of us. the owners are super friendly, and the man grew up in this house. "i am roman catholic. you are too." searching for a sign why he might assume that, he added excitedly, "you are american, so you are roman catholic." it was easiest to sort of agree, but i quietly added that not everyone in the u.s. is catholic.

thanksgiving eve treated us quite well. while it was not necessarily traditional, our meal was a thai feast at a beach front restaurant washed down with a little kingfisher beer. the sky was clear and the stars were shining bright. and the eve was spent discussing what we are thankful for now, in the past year, and what we are looking most forward to in the coming year. the conversations that ensued was an enjoyable and reflective way to spend the evening, focusing on our (new) perspectives and current travels.


We remain on this small beach resort in northern goa. all of us are admittedly "non-beach lovers", but upon arrival, we quickly changed our story and decided to spend a few extra days here. lounging on the beach is quite nice, but not necessarily relaxing. constantly approached by people selling sarongs and beaded necklaces and bracelets, adn silver anklets, the nice "no thank yous" just don't seem to cut it anymore. i just think to myself, "do not make eye contact" and "always wear your sunglasses...even at night". it is not that i don't want to be sociable. i quite like it, but i lose creativity for saying "NO NO NO, i don't suddenly feel like i want that beaded necklace i have now seen a million times. and i don't want my ears cleaned with whatever you are trying to sneak into my ears." but i never get tired of them asking "how or why are you so white? i can tell you just arrived to the beach." and suddenly they look blinded by my glow-in-the-dark skin.

a walk on the beach is quite enjoyable. the sand is soft and fine. and arambol is in close proximity with 3-4 other small beaches easily reached by a relaxing stroll, some with jagged rocks protruding from the sea. the beach is dotted with dozens of wooden boats and fishing net, taken out each morning for fresh catch, and dotted with even more beachside restaurants (which are fantastic night and day!)

the remainder of the 4-5 days here revolved around reading, relaxing, strolling to nearby beaches and bobbing in the rise and fall of the folding waves. not bad. and today, we mosied to the jungle around the bend, swam in the not so salty lake and followed other visitors along the short path of thick vegetation to "the banyan tree" where a dreadlocked fellow lives beneath and westerners head...for meditation or a spiritual experience perhaps?! between the backdrop of lush vegetation just beyond the palm-tree surrounded lake that is a stone's throw from the ocean, it feels like a little slice of heaven.

Safe and Sound

hey guys! thank you all for your thoughts and concerned emails regarding our safety during the devastating terrorist attacks in mumbai. it is strange to hear of them as we were in many of those places a week and a half ago: the taj mahal bathrooms were the nicest around, we had drinks at leopold's, and took a train out of the main station. our thoughts our with those effected, and hope the city can recover these horrible acts, and that peace will ensue.

i had just gotten off of the bus when i noticed "breaking news" on a local tv screen, and asked about it. we have limited media access, but will be following it as closely as possible. we are quite a bit south of the city now, and are very fortunate to be far from the it...or any city for that matter. we are currently in the state of Goa, many hours south of mumbai, beachside. we will be exploring the remote beaches over the next few days via 2 wheels of some sort (yet to be determined) and our 2 feet. the action is quite different in this leisurely world where the streets are filled with long-hair, dreadlocked hippies, less clothing, beautiful sandy beaches, and drinks and food to match. while it will not be the typical thanksgiving fare, i think ours will be in the form of drink and seafood/indian food. in any case we are very thankful to be where we are, and surrounded by such wonderful friends and family. thanks again for all of your kind thoughts. i hope you all are great! happy thanksgiving!

Southbound

So a quick update: city life began to take its toll, so we jumped a bus from Pune and headed south to Mahabalashwar, a smaller touristy (Bransonish for you fellow missourians) town mostly visited by Indians, but also had walking opportunities to escape...and find much needed peace and quiet in the forests and hills. we strolled along the valleys and hills, greeted a few cows, and explored various temples. it was here that we discovered our true star stature, as we were asked multiple times for our photo (although kids cried when their parents wanted them to pose next to us).

After a couple of days in Mahabalashwar, we jumped an overnight "luxery sleeper" bus, meaning there were beds, but they sort of smelled of dirty head. the roads themselves were quite windy, and were often awakened by a stream of honks and sharp turns that sort of forced the wedging of a limb into the bed frame to avoid flying from one side of the bus to another. not necessarily the most restful night's sleep, we rolled into Punjim, Goa's largest city, safely. it is our first day here, but the town is quite different from the other few places we have visited. it has a strong portuguese influence, including buildings, layout of the city, colors, food, and is much more western. we found a great hotel called Afonso with a kind, gentle-spoken owner, and it is by far the best we have layed our weary heads. the pillows are soft and the bathroom clean. we are happy.

Rite of Passage

Mumbai is a fascinating city with much to show and tell. The systems in place are incredible. and with limited resources (as we know them) and millions and millions of people, the chaos is functional. For example, the ghats (discussed in the previous blog), and perhaps the most intriguing to me is the dabawallah system. Thousands of women throughout the city prepare lunches to be delivered for the working people, and specifically their husbands. So between the morning hours and lunchtime, the food packaged in aluminum trays travels through many hands, on bikers' handlebars, shoulder poles, carried on heads, and for the millions delivered, rarely is one ever delivered late or wrong.

I hope that I have not painted a negative picture of the city, although I would not be telling the truth if i said the smells, large quantities of trash (trash cans are hard to find), the smog, and the extreme poverty didn't effect me, because it definitely does. And sleeping is tough...because i have become hypersensitive to anything crawling or touching me (a piece of hair could be a mosquito carrying malaria or the wind from the fan brushing against me could actually be a rat), but mostly some of the images are haunting.

With so many people packed into the city, the poverty is obvious - young mothers holding a mostly naked child begging for food or money, small children defecating off of the curb, a man collapsed on the sidewalk (possibly dead, maybe still alive. people had left bananas and crackers at his side, but perhaps it was too late), animals sick and wounded, and just quick glimpses into one of the many slums of a city where over 50% of the 16 million live. And the smells that accompany it due to lack of facilities and garbage containers is overpowering. it is difficult to know how to react or what to do, but it leaves me with a visceral response. where do you start? how did these injustices happen? I want to search for the dignity that seems to have been lost somewhere along the way. But their spirits are strong and alive and so is their will to live. There is no fault there. And it seems that a majority of Mumbai residets carry smiles on their faces and are genuinely welcoming and friendly.

i am ready to leave the smog and hustle and bustle of the city (i have never been one for big cities), and am still processing the experiences of mumbai. but i guess, in a sense, it was a rite of passage (if there is one) into India.

Hot and Sunny...with Smoke

This is the daily forecast in Mumbai. But the city seems unphased by it. With over 16 million people crammed into such a small space and 70,000 taxis alone, it is no wonder their is a cloud of smoke looming over the city.

So our few days spent in Mumbai was quite an experience. Having just arrived to India, this was quite the introduction. But we explored the city's main attractions on foot one day and by taxi with a guide the next. We were hoping to have some questions answered regarding the infrastructure, culture, etc but many of our questions were lost in translation. In any case, we enjoyed the day roaming the city and witnessed some incredible systems. The ghats is an outdoor laundry facility. And by facility, i mean concrete partitions and tables holding water where hundreds of people slung loads and loads of colorful clothing and linens delivered from around the city to be washed...by hand...in the hot hot heat.

Next, we visited a Jain Temple and one of the many Gandhi museums, which we all thoroughly enjoyed learning more of his philosophies and wisdom, and of course of his tragic, yet always humble end.

The later part of the day was spent taking a boat to Elephanta Island to visit the Shiva cave sculptures carved into basalt over the course of 100 years. That was a fascinating sight, and fairly well preserved considering the portuguese military used the carvings for target practice over the course of history.

Then it was back to our home, the Seashore Hotel housed on the 4th floor of a building near the ocean where each floor occupied a separate hotel. The staff was friendly and clean enough, except for the rat that lived in the trash.

And as of last night, after a train ride 4 hours east, we arrived in Pune to set off further south in the coming week.

Rats, Cats, Dogs, Cows...and Monkeys

The animals are many, and they coexist quite well. however, many of them are not necessarily well, nor are the resources available for them to be well...or fixed. the result is a large number of unwell and unclaimed cats and dogs. most are pretty calm, roaming around minding their own business, hunting for food. but we tend to attract some friends occasionally. yesterday morning, meg, tim, and i hit the fishmarket for a stoll. we strolled quickly as instructed because it is closely monitored due to the nearby military base. it is also apparently monitored by dogs. we immediately befriended "tripod", a 3-legged dog who led us through the market. he was a loyal pup since he caught up with us even after being cornered by a small gang of dogs. we eventually lost tripod, but in search of the nearby market, we took a turn through a neighborhood (which were open shacks along a walkway). it was an accidental, but invasive turn at the least, but we hadn't realized until the unfriendly guard dogs appeared. my heart about jumped out of my chest when it lunged and jumped on my leg barking and growling. in a frozen stance, all i could think was "rabies, rabies, rabies". I did not look back and hoped for the best. i escaped unharmed. it was a reminder to be more aware of people's privacy and making an effort to maintain it.

rats have also seemed to become local inhabitants. they hang out under food carts, in the streets, in the trash can of our shared hostel bathroom (witnessed twice by tim). i have unfortunately become a little paranoid and try to keep my legs elevated as much as possile. and i wondered why all of the cats around cannot keep them under control. perhaps the sheer size of them in comparison to the cats is a bit intimidating. or perhaps the cats are not up for the challenge. one cat in particular had problems walking as its legs collapsed beneath it when it tried. it can be quite heartbreaking watching the suffering animals, and even moreso witnessing the poverty (which is at least a separate blog entry).

the cows seem quite content roaming the streets and treated quite well by their respective owners. fresh blades of grass appear out of thin air and they contently munch the day away.

the monkeys on elephanta island that we witnessed today were cute, but because of human intervention (as is often the case with bears, squirrels, etc) have become quite a nuissance as we have forced them to depend on human food and drink. it was not unusual to see a monkey drinking out of a water bottle they had just stolen from a tourist.

as for the bed bugs...they are simply a nuissance!

Hold on Tight!

Riding in a taxi is a pretty essential experience in Mumbai. I believe something in the range of 70,000 of them circulate the city. the drivers are friendly and the rates reasonable, but the ride, oh the ride. in the few days i have been here, i have learned a few rules to live by.

rule #1: keep all limbs and head inside of the vehicle, no matter how hot it is. this way you can avoid petting the cyclist, cart, cow, pedestrian, bus or car beside you. driving dangerously close beside and behind another vehicle and inches from pedestrians' legs is the norm. collisions appear to be rare however. feeling the wind of a passing vehicle can actually be quite cooling.

rule #2: sweat and cleanse your pours. the heat of the engine creates plenty of it. deodorant doesn't help.

rule #3: enjoy the continuous symphony of horns. the puny sound of the fiats mixed with the occasional base of the buses.

rule #4: sit back and enjoy the ride. in this game, the lines on the road hold little value, so don't worry about it. the more cars that can fit abreast, the faster everyone moves. weaving is a given.

India: Take 1

Alright, the time has come. Meg, Tim and I arrived safely in Mumbai on the 16th, but not without a few small adventures first. I arrived in the wee hours of the morning and started off with a good ole' fashioned bout of the motion sickness. So upon landing, I b-lined to the bathroom gripping the barfbag tightly, finding comfort in the fact that if I may have to let it out, my first impression at least would not be spread all over the floor. I made it to the bathroom without incidence and did my business in the stall, not really caring what sounds were leaving my body. I just wanted whatever was making me feel so crappy to leave. Anyway, after settling in on the bathroom floor for a bit, I recovered.

I had 7 hours to kill before Tim and Meg arrived, so i ventured out of the airport briefly where many people waited. A trustworthy man offered me a free ride via airport shuttle to his hotel where i could rest my weary head, shower, and use the internet for a small fee. i just kept remembering what someone had warned me about on the plane, "don't trust anyone." but that feels so unnatural, and the offer sounded so great. but it was sort of true. the cost of the room was way too expensive for my liking, so i spent the remainder of the morning in the airport. that was small price to pay for an easy lesson.

We took a cab into the city and found our hostel. it is an experience in itself to ride in a cab in bombay where the lines on the road don't hold much meaning and the pedestrians take their lives into their own hands.

Yesterday, (day 2) we happened to be at the right place at the right time, and tried our talent as extras in a party/gambling/cabaret scene of a bollywood film. we couldn't quite figure out what the storyline was, but we enjoyed building up our star status. what a trip! we were dressed in some pretty glitsy clothes and bling. it was difficult to part with my gold ribbon heels but i managed.

and we spent today strolling around the city which was a nice way to experience it. for the first time, we understood the strong smells people had warned us about, and we began stumbling upon a few sights that left us with visceral reactions. just a few sneak peaks into a slum made me realize I have things pretty great. i could never understand a day in the life, try as i might. it does make me reconsider my wants vs. needs, and wonder how the hell these injustices happen.

on a lighter note, we will be spending another day or so in the city where the horns beep continuously. people have been very friendly to us, despite our obvious tourist appearance. in my first impression of the city i think i will have to disagree with the "do not trust anyone" statement, but maybe change it to, "be very cautious or you may have to pay a little more."

Inside Passage Adventures - Alaska or Bust

4/21/08 Day 1: THE WHAT?

As it was, our adventure began in Port Townsend. We stepped first into freshly rained on dog poo (is that an omen for something?) , then down the dock, admiring each beautifully crafted wooden boat as we stepped past. Side note: Neil Young also happens to house a boat in P.T., unfortunately, he wasn't on it. Then, to my nearly virgin sea eyes, thar she be…Sea Wolf, 85 feet long in all her glory! She is the wooden boat that will be my residence for the next 12 days or so. We (mostly meaning the rest of the crew who knows what they are doing) began loading the boat with cases of wine and beer, food, and various other sundries that will be needed during this summer’s trips.
Sea Wolf adventures is a small company that is part of the even smaller community of adventure companies to make Glacier Bay National Park their home for the summer months. They can take up to 12 passengers into the fjords and around the waters to view glaciers, watch orcas and humpbacks and sea lions, and bears and bald eagles, and moose eat, drink, play, mate, and whatever else they do, all the while maneuvering icebergs in kayaks, hiking, eating, drinking, and being merry. It is such a small community in fact that all al0ng the Inside Passage (from Port Townsend, WA throughout Glacier Bay, AK) port town locals and others who spend the season there (i.e. fisherman, etc) know your name (or your boat's name anyway). So, my friend, Sarah, is working on this boat for the summer, and I was fortunate enough to hitch a ride on the commute north.

So the motley crew: Mike, the Captain, who decided he would like his new career to be that of a “fluffer”, plays a great soundtrack for the occasion with the likes of Neil Young, Lucinda, Emmy Lou, etc. etc., and carries a dry, and very likeable sense of humor. Wayne, the Juneau residing rugged engineer, sports overalls fitting for the scenario, and cut his long locks “so people don’t think I give a shit”. But Wayne seems a very genuine, honest fellow who brings competency and passion to his work, likes to hunt and fish, and seems to prefer to live simply. Pete, the second Captain, the all too flirty P.T. native who chased his creative drive to pursue an acting career in NY, but has since returned. Now he is picking up some "sea time" to for his newly acquired Captain license. Heidi, the chef/naturalist who bakes delicious eats and treats, is not joining us for the northbound journey. She has already taken this trip something like 42 times and prefers to maximize her time at the organic farm she works for now. Then of course my friend Sarah, the polite, friendly naturalist whose passion for Alaskan wildlife and outdoor adventure infects the rest of us, so that we cannot help but be equally as enthusiastic and appreciative of that which surrounds us. And finally, me, the clueless midwest-reared nurse who has spent little time on boats and barely understands that they actually are supposed to float.

But yesterday was the first true test of my pharmaceuticals and boat knowledge. The scopolamine patch has so far passed the test. I, however, did not pass the ladder. The head, galley, saloon, wheel house (not to be confused as the cockpit), for’d, aft, flaking, it’s all another language to me. But, I am slowly learning to be a mate, attempting and practicing various knots and lingo.

As we set off, we discussed safety concerns (the most likely scenario being “man overboard” – seriously?). Then Wayne followed us from the dock on the dingy, at which point we anchored and loaded it on (I don't really get why, but whatever). Although the day began snowy and cold, by the time the afternoon hit and we departed around 3p, the sun (aka the giver of life) made its appearance for the remainder. And the few hours we cruised to San Juan Island, the water remained calm and serene. Sea lions sunbathed on a small rocky island where 2 bald eagles perched on one rock and one on the other. A Minke whale showed off its flowing beauty that immediately impressed its audience, and continued on its own path. The wind kept a brisk chill in the air, but everything was as it should’ve been.

4/22/08 Day 2 & 3: BOAT CULTURE AND CARHARTS

Day 2 has wrapped up and day 3 has begun. Routines are gradually falling into place: Wayne fires up the engine around 6a. Mike and Pete assume their positions in the wheelhouse (aka the cockpit) to depart around 7a, while Sarah and I continue to sleep peacefully in the comforts of our bunks nestled in our cozy penthouse suite. We roll out around 9a to begin our day with coffee or tea and a wee bit of breakfast, an update on our whereabouts and destination goals from the crew, followed by blogging and reading time, and sea life spying. the "whereabouts" response is usually the same: the captain first asks, "where are we?" hmmm...reassuring. anyway, the boat traffic is minimal, but the sea life is rich, and they gracefully share their world.

Our own personal assignment yesterday consisted of leisurely planning the menu for the coming week. everything is leisurely. we rocked through the narrow passage just before Nanaimo, BC, and stopped for a grocery run…and to readjust our sea legs. A couple of sea lions were also enjoying the day, mating on the dock. No privacy there. For the night, we anchored in a scenic cove where we were surrounded by clear skies exposing its universe of stars in the glow of the nearly full, bright orange moon.

And for the 3rd day in a row, the sun is shining and the waters are smooth. So we cruise through the Inside Passage on our small village, cooking, feasting, drinking, talking. Physical activity is limited, but if there was ever a perfect time to search inward, this is it. The time is plentiful and the serenity and flow of the water surrounded by islands of snowcapped peaks to the east and evergreens to the west is, in itself, meditation. And we float on, through newly discovered waters (or so it seems). It is nature at its best. As for the Carharts, they are part of the uniform here, and are still going strong, and “f*&!” and “man” are officially appropriate in most scenarios. So, on than note, I hope you all are having an f*@!ing amazing day, man!

4/23/08 Day 4: SEAWOLF RODEO

Yesterday brought another day of sunshine. The first couple of days didn’t cover a lot of distance, but it did give the Skipper and the First Mate (who is also a Captain in this case) a chance to “learn the boat” as they said...again, reassuring. We reached a narrow in Yukulta a little behind schedule, but just in time to reach high tide when the upwellings and undercurrents were full strength. In these scenarios, the currents mix underwater (as more water is pushed into a narrower space) and forces some of the water into swells, and some of it fights each other underwater, creating a pretty gnarly scenario for all of those involved. The fish get trapped, and the birds take advantage of their vulnerability and feast in this rich area. As for us, we rode those babies like rodeo stars, turning and rocking. But alas, we made it to a calm area close to shore until the seas calmed a bit. With time to kill, we hopped on the inflated skiff and cruised onto shore for a short hike to a lake. Two bald eagles posed on a tree branch across the way. And again we were off. We carved on at sunset, and the water repaired itself behind us. That night we anchored in Forward Harbor.

Since yesterday, we have been completely immersed in the Inside Passage and its blue and purple hues occasionally accented with birds sweeping through. The mountains are sexy with their confident, muscular bodies unapologetically bulging above the water’s surface. The white caps, created by the wake behind our boat, imitate the white caps of the mountains towering above it. But the mountains don’t seem to mind. They are perfect compliments to each other. And the water creates a perfect reflection of the vain mountains.


4/25/08 Day 5 & 6: IT’S ALIIIIIIIIIIVE!

Soundtrack: Neil Young, Gillian Welch, Iron and Wine

Quote of the Day: “No, but we used to make bongs out of those.” – Wayne’s response to Sarah asking if he has ever made a horn out of the kelp.

Note of interest: It costs $50/hr for gas alone. And we filled up 1,000, that's right one thousand gallons of gasoline into the boat this morning.

We wrapped up Day 5, and are in full swing of day 6. The landscape continues to impress, changing slightly as we progress north. Backtracking a bit to day 4, was another leisurely day on the boat, until we passed Vancouver Island and hit the open waters of the Pacific Ocean. And even more so than our first experience a couple of days ago in gnarly waters, we rocked and rolled for about 1 hour +…and so did my stomach. I took that as my cue to reach into my bag of tricks to relieve myself from the rumbles. Between the ginger, Tums, Dramamine, and a good nap, I was able to ride it out w/o vomiting.

As for yesterday, shortly after waking at the young hour of 8:45, we reached a confluence of waters, where perhaps the fish/food were many. Here we were greeted in the waters by at least 20 dolphins/porpoises. They are such cute and playful fellas. For a few minutes they played in our wake, gliding gracefully along side, darting back and forth, playing hide and seek, occasionally surfacing its dorsal fin, saying “here I am!” and a few times shouted , “check this out, guys” and leapt out of the water to show off their bodies and tricks. They seem so playful and curious. We later saw a cute little harbor seal floating along on his back. He must be used to boats passing through because our presence didn’t seem to phase him. He checked us out for a minute and continued on his way. Throughout the day, we saw multiple bald eagles, but at one point, there were 38 concentrated in one area of trees. That’s pretty cool.

We briefly stopped at “The Cliffs”, a secluded resort on Hecate Island where we followed a short path to the Pacific. Hummingbirds gathered around the feeders flapping their wee little wings as fast as they could. Sea life is abundant on the exposed rocks. Sarah is amazing at identifying and finding various species of plants, mammals, birds, squishy living things. we saw sea stars, anemones with and without tenacles, calcareous tubeworms. These guys are cool because they somehow collect calcium from the water and build a calcified tunnel to protect themselves and to live out of. Other finds - crumb-of-bread and purple sea sponge, which look like they have goose-bumps, or some sort of papular rash, and feel a little rubbery; various types of algae; lion’s mane jellyfish; and all kinds of other funky looking stuff. They all seem to work together beautifully, not caring if someone decides to make their home on top of them. Personal space apparently isn’t an issue. They’re a pretty diverse and social group. See Sarah’s blog for more detail (http://saranayschronicles.blogspot.com/). And still later that day we spotted a mother and calf humpback whale, and another mysterious whale who we were able to track by the water that geysered from the blow hole. Absolutely incredible! I excitedly mentioned that was the coolest thing I’ve ever seen. Mike, the captain, responded in a monotone voice, “you must be really sheltered then.” maybe he's right, but I am loving it!

I’m on book #2, as that’s how I’ve mostly been occupying my time, along with chores as I can find them, helping to cook and clean the kitchen (we have been feasting, despite the lack of exercise…I feel squishy. But I’ve had no problem gobbling up the homemade crabcakes, halibut cheek lasagna, and everything else we’ve had), and practicing a few knots. I’m not much help, but I learned the very very basics of navigating this boat and did for a few minutes. hey, i’ll take what I can get.

As for today, we’re still lucking out with sunny weather. We’re floating through the Royal Princess Channel, and now the weather is colder, and the mountains are growing. They make them bigger these days in the northern parts, and the colder weather blankets them with more snow. But with the sun shining, the waterfalls are plentiful. The scenery never gets old or ceases to amaze. Maybe THIS is Shangri La. In any case, it’s another day beating to a beautiful rhythm.

Stay tuned for tales of the rest of the adventure and pictures (as soon as I can figure out how to access it). Thanks for reading!